Next to Saint-Omer and on the edge of the audomarois marshes is a small town that does not lack character: Arques! This city is best known for being the undisputed capital of tableware in France. You have probably already heard of famous brands such as Cristal d'Arques, Luminarc or Arcoroc, developed by Arc International.
In addition, Arques is also a city full of sites to discover, and is well worth the detour.
In addition to the Arc factory, its shop and sales tent dedicated to table decoration, you will discover a rich heritage and exceptional natural spaces. Ideal for a relaxing walk or for a sporty hike with the family.
So, ready to explore this multifaceted city?
Arques: the natural heritage
Lovers of nature and calm, you will be delighted to visit Arques! Located on the edge of the Audomarois marsh, this town of more than 10.000 inhabitants has the appearance of a friendly village. Arques is indeed a small town that has managed to preserve its authentic charm and tranquility, while offering many leisure activities for all tastes. Whether you are looking for a peaceful place to recharge your batteries or a destination to have fun, you will be served.
Let yourself be charmed by the many ponds that dot the city and which offer you a smooth transition between the natural space and the city. You can walk in peace and enjoy the calm of the surrounding nature.
And if you are looking for adventure, do not hesitate to discover the forest of Rihoult Clairmarais. This forest is ideal for walks with family or friends, or for a morning jogging session.
The ponds of Arques
Are you looking for a bucolic walk around Arques or a hike? The ponds of Arques reach out to you! Six in number, these bodies of water are real gems of nature. You can admire the Arc-en-ciel ponds, the pond of Batavia, Malhôve, as well as that of Beauséjour. Some of them are artificial. Former gravel pits, some bodies of water are indeed former quarries that provided the ballast necessary for the establishment of local railway lines.
The ponds of Arques are located on the edge of the Audomarois marshes, a wetland steeped in history and recently labeled a biosphere reserve by UNESCO. The ponds of Arques thus offer the same fauna and flora characteristics as the marshes, and you will be able to meet hundreds of different species during your walk.
Moreover, these natural spaces have been developed in such a way as to preserve the environment and respect the places and their occupants. You will be able to stroll on the landscaped paths in complete serenity, while enjoying the exceptional landscapes that are available to you.
In summary, you will find meeting places for families, photographers, nature lovers, but also for sportsmen and fishermen.
Clairmarais forest and Harchelles lake
The national forest of Rihoult-Clairmarais, located on a good part of the territory of Arques, presents 1200 hectares of wooded area. This forest is a veritable green lung for the Audomarois.
In the heart of the forest Clairmarais, you can discover the "Lac d'Harchelle", a pond which was made famous thanks to Jean Bateman's novel published in 1935. This body of water was dug around the 9th century by the monks of Saint-Bertin and of the Cistercian abbey of Clairmarais for the extraction of peat.
The "Lac d'Harchelle" is now a popular site for Audomarois and walkers in search of tranquility. This stretch of water is also known to be home to many animal and plant species.
In addition to this pond, the Clairmarais forest also has 6 other smaller bodies of water, as well as a network of small paths suitable for Sunday walks.
The built heritage: To see and discover in Arques
Beyond its ponds and its national forest, Arques is also a real heritage gem to discover in the Audomarois.
The pavement circuit, which begins at the tourist office, is the ideal opportunity to discover all the treasures of the city. On the program: the town hall with its carillon, the thousand-year-old castle, the Saint-Martin church and the public garden. But that's not all ! A bucolic route will also allow you to walk along the old Neufossé canal, built by the famous Vauban, as well as the Grand Vannage, a majestic building that has spanned the Aa for more than two centuries.
The circuit ends with the discovery of the Fontinettes boat lift, a true witness to the ingenuity of our 19th century ancestors. This marvel of technology once allowed barges to overcome the 13,13 m drop on the historic canal in less than twenty minutes.
The town hall of Arques
The town hall of Arques, an architectural masterpiece with Flemish and Louis XIII influences, stands on the town's Grand Place. Nothing in its design leaves us indifferent. From the pronounced verticals to the stepped skylights, through the stepped sparrow-stepped gables and the belfry, this monument is not lacking in originality.
On the Grand Place d'Arques, we are regularly lulled by the sweet notes of the carillon. This one, made up of 14 bells cast in Holland, is capable of playing 25 famous tunes. With each melody, Marie Grouette, the famous swamp witch, comes out of the tower. According to legend, she haunts the bodies of water in the region and catches children who approach too close to the edge with her groët (fork with 4 or 5 teeth), to take them to her cave made of mud and reeds. … Every hour from 8 am to 20 pm, every day, the same fascinating spectacle awaits you.
Les Fontinettes, the last boat lift in France
The Fontinettes boat lift is certainly a jewel of machinery from the Belle Epoque. This unique site in France is a true witness to the innovation and ingenuity of the time.
The operating principle of this elevator inaugurated in 1888 is simple, but brilliant. The building has two bins, one above and the other below. To reverse the balance and allow two barges to cross the 13,13 meters of drop, it was enough to add 30 cm of water in the upper tank. While one of the barges went up, the other went down, an economical and fast system that allowed the operation in just about twenty minutes.
After 80 years of good and loyal service, the Lift has been replaced by a wide gauge lock, further upstream. But it remains a unique testimony to 19th century engineering and is absolutely worth a detour.
To find out more about the fontinettes lift, visit the website heritages-saint-omer.fr
Saint Martin's Church
In the town of Arques, the majestic Saint-Martin church stands proudly a few steps from the castle. Built in 646 (and remodeled since) by Count Walbert on the advice of Abbot Saint-Bertin, this neo-Gothic church with 3 parallel naves is a real architectural gem. The bell tower, dating from 1776, houses an old bell from 1664, recast in 1774.
Inside, you cannot miss the 12th century baptismal fountains with their rare Flemish lapidary inscriptions. You will also find in the church of Arques a superb organ case dating from 1856, including the organ, a gallery and a neo-Gothic balustrade.
Do not miss either in the cemetery the column erected in 1830 in memory of François-Joseph Bugat, captain lieutenant of the Napoleonic guard. On the monument you can read the various battles in which he participated, including Austerlitz and Wagram.
This church, renovated between 2007 and 2010, is an essential destination for all art and history lovers.
The great winnowing
The Grand Vannage has guaranteed the security of the city since the 18th century. Its role is essential to control the waters of the Aa in the region of Lower Meldyck and to avoid any flooding.
Another interesting element to note is that the historic Neuffossé canal, capable of supporting 350-tonne boats, passes majestically above the course of the Aa just in front of the Grand Vannage. The river thus flows in a siphon under the canal, offering a unique spectacle.
The tourist train of the Aa valley
The Chemin de Fer Touristique de la Vallée de l'Aa (CFTVA) is a well-known attraction in the North of France! This association manages a tourist train that travels the 15 kilometers of railway line between Arques and Lumbres, a section of the old Saint-Omer – Hesdigneul railway line.
You can discover a fine collection of SNCF railcars of the “Picasso” type and others, as well as old passenger cars towed by a diesel locomotive. Since the summer of 2013, the association has also owned a steam locomotive of Polish origin. Something to take your eyes off of and take a leap in time!
The route crosses a green part of the Regional Natural Park of Caps et Marais d'Opale, where nature is omnipresent. The train runs seasonally, from May to September, with several round trips per day. You can take the train at the various stops along the route: Arques station, Fontinettes boat lift quay, Blendecques station, Helfaut-Wizernes dome, Hallines quay, Esquerdes stop, Setques quay and Lumbres station.
During the trip, which takes about two hours round trip, a volunteer will be there to animate and comment on the route. If you have a little time, a stop at Blendecques station allows you to discover a set of railway objects, and Lumbres station, now transformed into a tourist office, is also a place not to be missed.
The association also offers themed trains throughout the year, such as for Heritage Days in September, Halloween in October and Father Christmas in December. So, what are you waiting for to live a unique experience aboard this tourist train?
The history of the town of Arques
Arques was once an ancient city whose function was to link the region to the seaside. In 530, it became the property of the Countess Mathilde, great-granddaughter of Flandebert, chief of the Morins and Ménapiens. Walbert, great-grandson of Mathilde and Count of Arkes, erected on the advice of the abbots Audomar and Bertin a church dedicated to Saint Martin and near his castle in 646.
Arques in the Middle Ages and under the Old Regime
Arques was plundered several times by the Anglo-Flemish and French armies during the Hundred Years War.
In the 1678th century, Spain possessed the city and its surroundings, forming what historians call "reserved Artois", but the Treaty of Nijmegen brought Artois back to France in XNUMX.
Notably, the brother of Louis XIV, Monsieur, camped at Arques in 1677 on the occasion of the Battle of the Peene which put the Audomarois back in the French bosom.
The industrial boom
A Neufossé canal, wanted by Vauban, was built in 1774. It was the beginning for Arques of a great industrial era marked by the construction of the Fontinettes boat lift in the 1880s, but also by the creation of number of companies: flax and jute mills, distilleries, brick and tile factories, glassworks, breweries, etc.
Arques in the XNUMXth century
In August 1908, the skeleton of an “elephas primigenius”, a first-generation elephant, was discovered in a quarry 400 meters from the current glassworks. The reconstituted skeleton of the 1908 mammoth is exhibited in the villa of a doctor from Lumbres who participated in its discovery. This until his death in 1933. It was then reassembled at the Boulogne-sur-Mer Natural History Museum before being dismantled when the museum moved in 1991.
During the First World War, Arques accommodated up to 100 soldiers as a strategic location. During the Second World War, Arques was occupied and was only liberated from September 000 to 3, 5 by a Polish regiment.
After the war, the crystal factory gave the city worldwide fame.
All the answers to your questions about Arques
The history of the town of Arques, located in Pas-de-Calais, dates back to Antiquity, when it already served as a crossing point between the region and the sea. The place has been attested since 530, with the town becoming the property of Countess Mathilde. Her great-grandson, Walbert, Count of Arkes, had a church dedicated to Saint Martin built there in 646 on the advice of Audomar, Bishop of Thérouanne.
In 1093, Robert I of Flanders, known as Robert the Frisian, confirmed to Abbot John I and the monks of the Abbey of Saint-Bertin the possession of the land of Arques and a nearby marsh. Count Baldwin V of Flanders had already established in 1056 that the land had been given to the abbey by Count Walbert, along with various duties, taxes on livestock in the forest of Ruhout and tithes in the castellany of Bourbourg.
During the Middle Ages, Arques experienced several vicissitudes, such as during the English invasions during the Hundred Years' War. The city was pillaged in 1340, 1346, 1369, and again in 1435, marking a period of devastation. However, under Louis XI in 1477, after a fire, Arques received the rights of fairs thanks to a royal letters patent to support its reconstruction.
In the 1678th century, Arques was part of the Artois Reserve under Spanish domination, before being attached to France in XNUMX after the Treaty of Nijmegen.
The 18 and the 19th century marked a turning point, with the construction of a canal wanted by Vauban in 1774 and the Fontinettes boat lift inaugurated in 1888, promoting industrial development, notably with the establishment of spinning mills, distilleries, the Vergriete tile factory and a glassworks-crystal factory which would become Arc International.
In the 1944th century, Arques became a strategic centre during the First World War and suffered German occupation during the Second World War, before being liberated in 2000. After the war, the crystal industry continued to grow, but the town underwent a reconversion in the XNUMXs following a major loss of jobs in the industry.
The toponymy of the town of Arques, in Pas-de-Calais, dates back to the 7th century.
Arques, is in fact attested from the 7th century under the form "Arkae", is a medieval toponymic formation. Norman-Picard variant of "Arches", it retains the pronunciation of the Latin [k]. According to Albert Dauzat and Charles Rostaing, Arques would mean "arch of a bridge", or even the bridge itself.
Arques has several notable built heritage elements and historical monuments:
The Fontinettes boat lift : A unique site in France, built between 1883 and 1887 and inaugurated on July 8, 1888.
Danvers Street Castle : An original building mentioned as worth a look.
City Hall : A remarkable building of Arquois heritage.
The great winnowing : Another architectural structure of interest.
The church dedicated to Saint Martin : Built in 646 by Walbert, Count of Arkes, near his castle. It was then remodeled several times.
Industrial remains : Arques has a rich industrial past, including spinning mills, distilleries, brick and tile factories, and a 19th century glassworks and crystal factory. Former sites of the Arc glassworks are currently being redeveloped.
The Neufossé Canal wanted by Vauban: Built in 1774, it is part of the city's hydraulic heritage.
The Arques crystal factory began in 1825 with the founding of the Verrerie des sept écluses by Alexandre des Lyons de Noircarme. The following year, on April 8, 1826, this glassworks joined forces with the Carpentier-Mancel glassworks, founded in 1823 in Saint-Martin-au-Laërt by Charles Carpentier, thus strengthening the local glassmaking activity. An order of September 5, 1835 authorized Carpentier to establish a new furnace.
On July 3, 1853, the glassworks was taken over by Allard and Ladey, before being seriously damaged by a fire in July 1856, causing the roofs to collapse. Rebuilt, it was taken over on March 31, 1863 by the company Ladey and Bléchet. In 1869, Alexandre des Lyons de Noircarme sold his shares, and on August 10, 1884, Ladey and Bléchet became the company Bléchet and Collette, then Bléchet and company on October 16, 1886.
In April 1887, the glassworks ceased its activity, to be relaunched in 1893 with the creation of SA Verrerie et Cristallerie d'Arques, founded on November 19, 1892. On July 26, 1897, Prudent Avot bought the company during a judicial sale and Georges Durand, former employee of the Sèvres crystalworks, became its director. On February 27, 1900, he became a partner with the creation of the company Avot Durand, before founding, on December 11, 1916, the company G. Durand et cie.
In the 1927th century, the company expanded and modernized. In 1930, Jacques Durand, Georges Durand's second son, joined the business. In 1934, he studied American techniques, setting up a first basin furnace and automatic presses in 15. After the Second World War, the boom continued thanks to the Marshall Plan. Production reached 000 tons per year in 1950, with the invention of balloon glass in 1958 and the mechanization of crystal stemware in 1968.
The group, which became a world leader in tableware, internationalized its activities from the 1980s. In the 2000s, the crystal factory changed its name to Arc International, marking a new era of global expansion.
Since 2007, Arc International has been experiencing financial difficulties.
The Saint-Martin d'Arques church is a historical jewel that bears witness to several centuries of history. Its origins date back to the 646th century. In XNUMX, Walbert, Count of Arkes, had a modest building dedicated to Saint Martin built, on the wise advice of the abbots Omer (Audomarus) and Bertin, near his castle. This first place of worship is part of the context of a progressive Christianization of the region.
The current church, whose architecture reflects the Gothic style, owes mainly to a reconstruction that took place in the 16th and 17th centuries. It is characterized by a nave of four bays with side aisles and an imposing building with three naves. The choir, cleverly located between two side chapels, adds to the solemnity of the whole. However, in the 19th century, significant modifications partly distorted the nature of the building, modifying some of its original elements.
Surrounded by a vast cemetery, which includes a military cemetery, the church has long been the preferred burial place for the region's notables, who purchased the right to a tomb from the end of the 17th century. Today, it remains a strong symbol of Arques' heritage, recalling the richness of its medieval history and its importance in community life.
Marie Groëtte is the Jacquemart automaton of the Arques town hall, a 1,60-metre-high mechanical figure that embodies the local legend of the witch of the marsh. Installed on the upper part of the building, this automaton is associated with a magnificent carillon of fourteen bronze bells made in Holland by the Fonderie Royale Petit & Fritsen, capable of playing twenty-five melodies. It notably plays the "P'tit Quinquin" or the "Corons" by Bachelet.
According to the oral tradition of the Audomarois, Marie Groëtte (sometimes spelled Grauette or Grouëtte) is a witch who haunts the marshes, ponds and canals of the region. Legend has it that she lures unwary children who venture too close to the water into her cavern hidden under the mud, thanks to her "groët" - a hook-shaped tool with three or four curved teeth. This story was intended to protect children from the dangers of aquatic environments, while others see it as a warning against disobedience.
The Fontinettes boat lift, located on the Neuffossé canal in Arques, is an exceptional example of 1880th-century industrial engineering. Built to replace a series of five locks that had become insufficient to cope with the increase in river traffic, its construction began in 1887 and was completed in XNUMX. Designed by the English engineer Edwin Clark in collaboration with the French engineer M. Bertin, it was inspired by the Anderton hydraulic lift in Great Britain.
Inaugurated on July 8, 1888, this elevator allowed to overcome an impressive height difference of 13,13 meters thanks to a hydraulic balance system based on two tanks supported by enormous pistons. For nearly 80 years, it facilitated the passage of 12 boats per year, thus becoming an essential link in river traffic in the region.
However, the evolution of the canal's gauge in 1958 required a rethink of the infrastructure. In 1967, the lift was decommissioned and replaced by a modern lock, the pistons having been permanently blocked by poured concrete.
Recognized for its historical importance, it was listed as a historic monument in 2013, then classified in 2014. A complete restoration, completed in 2023, allowed this heritage to be reopened to the public. Today, it is the last boat lift in France still standing, a symbol of the industrial know-how of yesteryear.
Arques offers several accommodation options for visitors:
Campsites
Beausejour Campsite: Located on Rue Michelet, this 4-star campsite offers pitches for tents and camper vans. It has a children's playground. 0 3 21 88 53 66
Guesthouses
The Holidays Gîte : Located near the city center, this renovated cottage is ideal for welcoming families. It is close to the Clairmarais forest and local activities.
Hotels
Good Night Hotel : A budget hotel offering simple rooms with free Wi-Fi and parking. 03 21 93 81 20
In Arques you will find several options for eating and drinking, ranging from restaurants to cafes. Here are some recommendations:
- Marie's Groet, restaurant offering regional cuisine – Address: 9, place Roger Salengro, 62510 Arques – 03 21 11 13 47
- Lilipizz: Italian restaurant and pizzeria – Address: 2 Av. du Général de Gaulle, 62510 Arques – 03 91 92 55 72
- Brasserie Au Bon Coin: Bistro/brasserie located rue Voltaire in Arques – 03 21 93 64 83
- The BF (Good Franquette) – brasserie located place Roger Salengro in Arques – 03 21 98 23 94.
- The Barne mill – 160 avenue du Général de Gaulle in Arques. 03 21 93 68 68
Arques offers several options for walks and short hikes:
The Fontinettes Trail : A 9,43 km circuit (approximately 2 hours 45 minutes) which allows you to discover the natural riches of Arques, including the Étang de Beauséjour, the Étang de Malhôve, the Rihoult Forest, the canal towpath, the nautical base and the boat lift.
Walk around the Rainbow Ponds : These ponds offer a pleasant setting for a family walk.
The public Garden : Ideal for a short walk, this park has hiking trails, picnic areas and a children's playground.
These options allow you to discover the diversity of Arques' landscapes, ranging from wetlands to forests, passing by historic sites such as the Fontinettes boat lift.
The Arques Boat Lift Festival, which now replaces the former Youth Festival. This new formula, launched in 2023, takes place over three days in July.
The festival offers free concerts with a variety of artists, including national stars.
To visit the Arques marsh, you have several options:
- Boat cruise: O Marais by ISNOR offers a new cruise from Arques. You can discover the river world and experience the crossing of the Fontinettes lock aboard their boat. This is not the marsh in the strict sense, but the canal that crosses it. Isnor also offers guided tours and boats for hire.
- The Boat Makers, in Saint-Omer, near Arques. The last shipyard in the marsh offers workshop tours, guided tours in a bacôve, meals by the water and boats/canoes for hire – 43 route de Clairmarais 62500 Saint-Omer – 06.08.09.94.88.
Tourist train: The Aa Valley Tourist Train offers a unique way to discover the local landscapes, including part of the marsh4.
Arques has several notable ponds:
Malhôve Pond : One of the main ponds on the Arques ponds site.
Beauséjour Pond : Located near the Arques campsite.
Rainbow Ponds : A set of three different ponds: Pond A: 1700 m2, mainly used for trout fishing, Pond B: 3100 m2, intended for white fish fishing, Pond C: 900 m2, also used for trout fishing
Batavia Pond : Another body of water mentioned in the Arques fishing routes.
Together, these ponds form the Arques “site des étangs”, a redeveloped natural area that offers opportunities for walking, fishing and nature observation. The site was designed to preserve biodiversity while allowing visitors to enjoy this natural environment.
To get to Arques by bus, you can use the Mouvéo transport network, which serves the Audomarois region. Here are the main lines and information:
- Line 3: This line connects Saint-Omer (Gare) to Arques (Malhôve), with several stops in the city.
- Line 2: This line goes from Saint-Omer to Helfaut, passing through Arques.
Opening hours: Buses run from Monday to Saturday, but it is important to check the specific timetables as they can vary. You can check the timetables on the Mouvéo website here or at the Saint-Omer train station.
Tickets: Tickets can be purchased from the driver or at the Mouvéo reception point at Saint-Omer station.
For more information on routes and timetables, you can visit the official website of Mouvéo or contact their customer service at 0 800 510 232.
